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Shawl vs Notch Lapel


‘The difference between good and great is attention to detail’, so goes the well-known quote.

At Shepherd and Woodwards, attention to detail is of paramount importance to us.

A suit lapel speaks more about your character, or the event that you are attending, than you may realise.

‘Lapel’ is the fancy term used to describe the two flaps of fabric that are at either side of the suit opening, starting at the shoulder and ending at the point at which the first button of the jacket is positioned.

Your choice of lapel will be determined by which event you are purchasing your suit jacket for, so we have put together a handy guide so that you will be ‘in the know’ for all future purchases!

What does a shawl lapel look like?

A shawl lapel is unique, it features a single piece of material that starts at a seam at the back of the neck and continues in a curve from the collar bone to the buttonhole.

It evolved from the early Victorian long smoking jacket, which served as a protective layer from all the ash and smoke.

The shawl lapel comes in varying widths; a thinner shawl lapel is seen as more contemporary, whilst a wider lapel is seen to be ‘classic’ and traditional.

A well-known example of a shawl lapel was worn by James Bond in the film Skyfall, where he sported a blue velvet tuxedo, which had a black satin shawl lapel.

When would it be acceptable to wear it?

The shawl lapel exudes style and sophistication. It is featured as part of an ensemble for highly formal events, such as black-tie events, formal dinners, galas, formal weddings and award ceremonies.

A shawl lapel is often worn in a contrasting colour or material to the rest of the jacket – usually in a satin or velvet material – and is only seen on a tuxedo/dinner jacket.

What does a notch lapel look like?

A notch lapel is the most common type of lapel, seen on regular everyday/business suits. It is classical and traditional.

It features a sideways ‘v’ shape cut out of the fabric, at the point in which the jacket collar meets the lapel, creating a visible gap in the fabric. 

As seen below on our Torre Blue Herringbone Jacket Milan 320 jacket.

The notch lapel comes in varying widths, but the notch should always fit the width of the lapel itself.

The same lapel rules apply for a notch as a shawl – if you want a more contemporary style then go for a thinner lapel, but if you prefer a classical style or have a larger chest then go for the wider lapel.

The notch lapel looks best on a single-breasted suit.

When would I wear it?

A notch lapel is a wardrobe staple; every man should have at least one in his wardrobe. Its versatility means that it can be worn as part of a casual ensemble, a modest wedding outfit, as a good first impression at an interview or in many other professional/business situations.

Just like a white shirt, it will always be a safe choice, especially if you don't wish to stand out but still want to appear smart and stylish.

For any further help and guidance on which lapel is for you, then please do not hesitate to contact us


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